3:1 Geared Bowden Extruder

Adding Go Faster Stripes to your 3D Printer
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Ferocious
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2018 1:31 pm

3:1 Geared Bowden Extruder

Post: # 108Post Ferocious
Thu Jan 11, 2018 4:10 pm

Here is my 3:1 Geared Bowden Extruder. It does not require a hobbed bolt like most on thingiverse. Instead it uses a MK7 extruder gear mounted on a M5 bolt. It has had very good feed back and comes highly recommended on the face book groups! A full bill of materials required is available on the thingiverse page.

Image

Thingiverse Link:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2549097



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CharlieSully
Posts: 9
Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2018 11:38 am
Location: Sydney

Re: 3:1 Geared Bowden Extruder

Post: # 229Post CharlieSully
Tue Jan 16, 2018 11:05 am

how does the Bowden work? like does it force the filament thru the extruder via that Teflon tubing?
Is it fixed at the Bowden mount to the hot end somehow?

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LrdSatyr8
Posts: 28
Joined: Thu Jan 11, 2018 2:35 pm

Re: 3:1 Geared Bowden Extruder

Post: # 231Post LrdSatyr8
Tue Jan 16, 2018 4:37 pm

CharlieSully wrote:
Tue Jan 16, 2018 11:05 am
how does the Bowden work? like does it force the filament thru the extruder via that Teflon tubing?
Is it fixed at the Bowden mount to the hot end somehow?
Basically all a Bowden does it move the heavy extruder motor off the x-axis carriage and reduces the shadow waves on prints, and actually prolongs t he life of the printer. When it doesn't have to move such a heavy carriage back and forth, the wear is reduced dramatically. You basically move the extruder motor to the top of the frame and use a PTFE tube to feed the filament down into the hotend. The E3D hotend uses a heatsink with a fan on it to keep the filament cool above the hotend. It works really well and you can speed your prints up a bit with it. But it does have it's pitfalls too... the retraction settings to keep the stringing down are a pain to calibrate, but once you have them set it just works. The only problem with a Bowden is when you want to print with flexible filament like Ninjaflex. Because of the distance between the extruder and the hotend, the flexible filament will bind up in the tube and clog. A direct drive is the best way to use Flexible Filament, due to the short distance between the extruder and the hotend, it doesn't have time to clog up (althou it can still get wrapped around the gear). Hope this helps!
Whatever you do, don't tighten the nuts against the acrylic too much... you'll regret it!

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CharlieSully
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Location: Sydney

Re: 3:1 Geared Bowden Extruder

Post: # 234Post CharlieSully
Tue Jan 16, 2018 10:36 pm

thanks for the reply, that helps greatly!
I only print in ABS/PLA so Im guessing this would be perfect setup as I killed my UPMini 4 years of heavy use!
I bought a A8/Prusa Clone as I needed a slightly larger build area and being a hardware tech at work something to mess around with also got my attention.
Thanks again appreciate your reply I had no idea of the benefits of the less weigh on the carriage :)

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Rob2D
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Location: Ireland
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Re: 3:1 Geared Bowden Extruder

Post: # 243Post Rob2D
Thu Jan 18, 2018 11:29 am

I don't like bowden myself. Too awkward and gives way more trouble than a direct drive.
Wake me, when you need me.

Wyliecoyoteuk
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Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2018 12:19 pm

Re: 3:1 Geared Bowden Extruder

Post: # 298Post Wyliecoyoteuk
Mon Feb 05, 2018 12:24 pm

Would a Bowden setup be better for filaments like wood?
I have tried printing with wood PLA, but I keep getting filament overheating and setting solid in the heat break.
I have ordered a Bowden kit from China, as the cooling for the heat break looks better

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